Kos - August 2014

Sunday 24 August 2014

After a fantastic summer in England we are getting ready to return to the slightly higher temperatures of Kos.  We have had a brilliant time and the last ten weeks have flown by.  We were home for a week before flying off again (whoever thought that was a good idea?) to Majorca to celebrate our friend Bob's retirement and had a great four days, despite watching our hired car being towed away. We have celebrated the arrival of my Senior Railcard with a lovely lunch with girlfriends, another party at home with family and friends, trips to the theatre in London, Heather's 30th barn dance party, Henry's 1st birthday Mad Hatter's tea party, a lovely wedding and catching up with new and old friends. We are going back to the boat for a rest before it all begins again on our return with another wedding, birthdays and lots more.  Beginning to think that this is sounding like one of those Christmas round robin letters so think I'll stop now.

As mentioned already temperatures in Kos at the moment are warmer than here at around 30 degrees and I have persuaded (perhaps not the word he would use) Bruce that we should spend the first two nights in an hotel especially as Sequel is out of the water and it will be as least as hot inside the boat as out and also because she doesn't go back into the water until Thursday.  Actually had a little bit of a paddy and if anyone is wondering where my granddaughter gets her foot stamping from ............  It is also extremely windy in the Aegean at the moment and we are really hoping that by Thursday the wind will have settled down at least a bit.

We will then have a few days to get ready for our visitors, Sue and Andy, and then we are hoping to discover more of the Dodecanese.

The Dodecanese consists of 12 larger islands and over 150 smaller islands and islets in the eastern Aegean, close to Turkey's Western Anatolian coast. Many of the islands can therefore be considered to belong geographically to Asia, though ethnically all are very Greek. 

We have already visited Simi and Nisyros, albeit briefly, and intend to travel north to Samos, which is not part of the Docadanese but in the Northern Aegean, and then work our way back to Patmos and Leros.  This is, as always, completely dependent on the wind.

Leaving Turkey for Greece

Monday 09

Finally we left Marmaris Yacht Marina, our contract expiring today, and we headed for Sogut where we had been previously with both Greta & Rob and the family only last week. The trip took approximately five hours and who should be there on the pontoon but Sandpiper with Nicky and Andy, so first tea, then drinks, then dinner. But before all that a little drama with a sailing boat eager to come onto the pontoon immediately after us and before we had properly sorted out the lazy line and in their excitement scraped their anchor along the edge of the boat underneath the handrail - aargh! A little patience on their part and it would not have happened.  

Tuesday 10

After coffee on Sandpiper a fairly short trip to Datca to check out of Turkey. Very hot by now and decided we didn't like Datca very much.  It is necessary to use an 'agent' to do the checking out process and the whole thing was completed in under an hour.  We stayed the night on the town quay as it was too late to get anywhere else.

Wednesday 11

Out of Turkish waters and back into Greece.  We headed for Symi (Simi) where we had been almost two years ago now.  It is such a pretty town but massive ferries arrive each day and many other visiting yachts, large and small arrive during the course of the day, but usually in the afternoon after the last ferry has gone at about 4.30 p.m.  Despite the narrow road which goes round the harbour there is an alarming amount of traffic and many very noisy bikes.  Not painting a great picture here as it is still, amazingly, a great place. 

Up until now this blog has been very mundane and really not much drama over the last five weeks and just when you are thinking its time to relax and enjoy the last week: although it was a lovely sunny day there was quite a strong breeze blowing down the gap in the hillside surrounding the town.  There is a harbour master who uses a very shrill whistle at the boats coming in and then directs the boats to a place on either side of the harbour.  After we had tied up in a good spot on the right side of the harbour,  the harbour master's parting words to the Captain were to check the anchor as it didnt look as if it was holding, and we werent entirely sure that it was either.  Initially the Captain was more concerned about checking back into Greece and had to visit the Police (to show passports), Customs and the Port Police (to check in the boat) all in three different places from one end of the harbour to the other (a horseshoe effectively).  We then had lunch and finally at about four when the wind was really blowing more strongly than before and the dinghy was perilously close to crashing continusouly into the harbour wall we decided we would have to go out and reset the anchor. As luck would have it a Turkish skipper had just come in beside us on our port side and offered to help - OMG - so with me at the back of the boat and TS taking up the anchor and Sequel's Captain on the helm we made our first attempt to do so. First the TS had no idea how our windlass/anchor/who cares/remote control worked and in an attempt to come back to ask a question managed first to pull up the anchor so fast it wedged sideways in its roller and he couldnt get it out.  I looked forward to see him trying to climb over the front of the boat to dislodge it with his foot.  Eventually he managed to get a rope around it and pull it straight again.  Meanwhile we were in the middle of the harbour drifting all over the place.  We tried again but unsuccessfully to reverse into our slot but the wind was too strong and then TS asked if he could take the helm. It took TS two attempts but Sequel and her engines have never been used, and probably never will be again, like the TS did. 'Gunning the engines' springs to mind.  Sequel's Captain is very cautious. We zoomed back into our slot ............... but not quite close enough to tie off and get the pasarelle in place so SC (now on anchor duty) had to let out some more chain and then we were too close and the dinghy got completely scrunched up on the harbour wall. But at last it was done and amazingly no damage to dingy although one of the webbing straps which held it in place had completely snapped in two making an alarming noise when it did so and I thought it was the dinghy breaking in two. There was another Dutch steel boat on our starboard side whose skipper had also been very helpful - I was throwing the lines to him - and he joined SC and TS on board to sort out the anchor chain which had now stuck firmly as it had twisted. Hardly surprising as the boat must have swung round a few times before TS actually reversed - the Dutch skipper's wife was very disparaging about how many men it took etc. 

Sequel in Symi town

We stayed two nights. Thursday was very hot in the harbour and we cowered underneath our bimini all day hardly venturing out until the afternoon when we discovered if we had just walked to the headland we would have found more of a breeze. That evening the Captain received an email from Breakaway anchored in a bay on the other side of the island inviting us for drinks on Friday night, possibly with Sandpiper, who we had seen briefly come in and out of the town earlier in the day. Beginning to feel like we are being followed.

Friday 13

We left Symi town and headed round the island to Panormitis, aka Monastry Bay as, not surprisingly, it has a huge monastry. Had a lovely peaceful afternoon relaxing in the sunshine and even the Captain had a swim. We had drinks on Breakway, not with Sandpiper who we had passed earlier in the day heading back to Symi town, but with Petronella, a lovely green French classic ketch which/who (I get confused) had left Turkey also and were heading eventually to cross the Atlantic in January 2015 - they are very, very welcome.

Monastry Bay

Saturday 14

A quick trip in the dinghy to buy bread from a bakery at the Monastry and we set off again for Nisiros where we are now.  We have been told what a lovely island this is - it is an extinct volcanic crater which pokes out of the sea.  We will return to view the volcano properly later on in the year but heading for Kos tomorrow and our last few days.

Palon, Nisiros

Turning 60 at Piynar Villa Hotel, Turunc

Saturday 31 

We had been promised a lift at 11.30 a.m. by Avis car rental to take us to their office in Marmaris to collect our hire car for the week and were slightly embarrassed at how much we had to take with us - including a high chair, changing mat, lilos, etc.and we were so pleased that we were collected as we would never have found the Avis office left to our own devices.  It was miles away but fortunately in the direction in which we were eventually heading.  Spotted a large supermarket on our way and headed back there to stock up with things for the villa and nappies etc. for Henry.

Arrived at Piynar Villa Hotel in time for lunch before the family arrived.  The hotel consists of ten villas, each with it's own pool and two bedrooms, a small kitchen, living room etc. It is quite a small area with a club house for meals etc, quiet high up on the hillside and overlooking Turunc Bay with terrific views  Claire & Gordy and the children had one villa and we shared another very close by with Matt & Heather. We had to wait sometime for our villa to be cleaned and were finally able to move in less than half an hour before they all arrived. They had had a good trip although a very early start.  Dinner in the club house as all shattered from 4 a.m. start.

Sunday 01 June

Bruce & Matt had to return to Avis to organise an additional driver and because Bruce had left 'secret' things on the boat! But a lovely morning and everyone happy to swim in the pool while they went and returned for lunch with more provisions. The forecast for the whole week was not promising but stayed fine for most of the day. Dinner delivered to C&Gs villa by the hotel restaurant - we had felt uncomfortable the previous evening as hardly any other guests and the children were slightly disturbing the peace.

Monday 02 June 

My birthday - 60 today!!

A fine day but in a bit of a rush as a boat trip provided by our tour operator and a 9.30 a.m pick up to take us to Kumlubuk Bay.  The boat was big enough for eight adults and we were pleased to have it all to ourselves.   We were looked after by the Captain and his first mate, a Turkish girl, who provided us with drinks and a great lunch and took us to two or three bays where we stopped to swim.  By the time we had had lunch the wind picked up and we had a bumpy trip out of the bay to head back.

Back in time for tea and birthday cards and lovely presents and then a special dinner organised by Bruce which we ate outside C&Gs villa again.  The family pulled out all the stops and had decorated the garden with bunting and balloons and all my cards - have never had so many smuggled here. And before dinner 'the video' - Heather had put together clips sent secretly to her from family and friends and it was brilliant.  I started laughing, slightly hysterically, at my niece and her family in Hong Kong and my nephew and his family - all in fancy dress??? - singing Stevie Wonder's Happy Birthday and ended up crying and laughing at the same time as there was so many surprises. (Had to watch it all again on Tuesday but managed not to cry quite so much).

Had a fantastic day and so many people to thank but will do that in a more personal format - eventually.

Tuesday 03

A little shopping in Turunc just down the hill but not changed much since Bruce and I were here seven years ago.  An overcast day, although very warm, and we relaxed at the villas all day. Decided to eat in the town in the evening and found a great restaurant, family run, who looked after us very well and Henry slept in his car seat.

Wednesday 04

Far too windy to sit by the pool although warm and sunny so we decided to set out on a trip to a bay across the headland to escape the wind - ha! Bruce drove me, Matt, Heather & Effie to a place called Bayir, about half way, where there is a plane tree which is almost 2000 years old and then he went back for the Bighams.  Not much going on in the small town square but walked round the tree three times and made a wish which is the tradition.  Effie wished for a motorbike.  We had told her not to tell her wish as it wouldn't come true but Heather overheard her make it and then she was so disappointed that the motorbike didn't materialise.

Biyar - 2000 year old plane tree and three youngsters

Matt then took over the driving and the first contingent set off to Sogut where we had been last week with the Pasteiners. It was only 16 kilometres but on a steep mountain road with some very scary hairpin bends - the whole trip began to seem more like a mission and Matt had to return to get the others - we nearly called the whole thing off, especially when we finally got down to Sogut and it was blowing a hooley there too. But Matthew, well known for his love of Grand Prix racing - at least watching it - returned to bring the others and we had a good lunch and managed a couple of hours on the 'beach' and a swim in the sea before the return trip,. We decided to take a taxi as the journey was too tricky to keep going back and forwards - we should have hired a mini bus instead of a car.

Thursday 05

A storm over night and very overcast this morning.  Matt & Heather took the car to discover a bit more of the Bozburun peninsula and we set off with the Bighams for a stroll around Marmaris. We had planned to take a dolmus but two full ones trundled past our stop and at least half an hour to wait for another one so as a large taxi went by we hailed that instead and then arranged for him to pick us up later. Perfect.  As luck would have it we had no more rain and the sun came out.  We enjoyed a stroll along the waterfront and a great lunch out.  In the meantime M&G had a good day too and Heather managed to swim under a waterfall.

Dinner by the villa again but M&H had gone shopping for more provisions and we had a BBQ (courtesy of our Cobb from the boat) of kebabs and salad.  

Friday 06

Our last day - and a lovely one.  Spent the whole day swimming and by the pool and got very excited when Effie (3 years & 8 months old) discarded her arm bands and swam across the width of the pool. Henry loves the water (but actually freezing in the swimming pool) and spent sometime sitting in a 'toy box' filled with warmer water - Matt escaped to our pool to read his book and so everyone was happy.  

Saturday 07

The week has flown by and we were sad to leave at around 10 a.m. - the Absaloms and Bighams back to Dalaman Airport and we had to return the car and head back to the boat. Needless to say very warm (31 degrees and no wind) and sunny today after a week of mixed weather.  Our plan is to set off on the final stage of this holiday on Monday, when our contract at the marina expires, towards Kos - weather permitting.

The Pasteiners in Turkey

Saturday 24

The Pasteiners arrived last night having had a good journey and tucked into a chicken sandwich and a bottle of wine before bed - early for them late for us.  At last time to set sail but not before the Captain had his first challenge of getting out of a very awkward space as by now hemmed in by a large boat on our port side and two catamarans on our starboard side and various lines in the water waiting to be caught on the stabilizers.  But we had plenty of help and at least four people waving us off from the pontoon which was lovely.

We headed for our first night stop - a beautiful day and no wind to bother us initially.  It took four hours to get to Bozuk Buku, a large bay with the ruins of ancient Loryma and an ancient citadel. We tied up on a rickety old pontoon with Ali Baba's restaurant at the end, went for a swim and then later climbed up to explore the citadel and finally ate dinner in the restaurant. A very full first day and so far so good.  The wind did pick up but nothing too alarming.

Sequel from the citadel and Ali Baba's restaurant

Greta and Rob

Sunday 25

A short trip round the headland to Sogut Limani where we tied up on another pontoon, lolled about most of the afternoon and another swim in the sea before dinner at the Octopus Yacht Club (the restaurant which owned the pontoon) and included in the price of dinner was our overnight stay as well as electricity and water. 

Monday 26

An even short trip round the corner to Bozburun and despite being advised that the harbour is very small we went in and tied up against the town quay without any problems.  It was more or less empty when we arrived at 1 p.m. but by the evening we had been joined by many other boats and the harbour was almost full - still early in the season here.  Greta & Rob are intrepid swimmers and they went off in the afternoon to find somewhere to swim.  Dinner at Osmans.

Tuesday 27

Market day but disappointingly nothing like as good as others we have been to but managed to stock up on fruit and vegetables as planning to have a couple of nights at anchor. Found our way to a bay recommended by Bula known as Kucuven Burnu but now renamed Geoff's Bay.  More swimming, more book club after lunch and a lovely evening at anchor.

Wednesday 28

Finally chose to anchor in Keci Buku after examing a couple of other spots first.  Appalled by amount of rubbish along the sides of one bay and evidence of camp sites so anchored in a lovely spot only to spend the afternoon being irritated by personal watercraft buzzing about and gulets coming in playing loud music but by the evening they had all gone away and Rob declared this his favourite place. Again Greta & Rob went swimming and Rob climbed up to the ruins of another fortress on a small island close by.  As someone said to us a while ago now 'another pile of old rocks' but thought to have ancient foundations. Another evening on the boat but supplies running low now and beginning to feel like we are on some kind of slimming kick.

Early evening in Keci Buku

Thursday 29

A seven hour trip back to Marmaris Yacht marina but a beautiful day and lovely sitting on the back of the boat in the sunshine.  By the time we got back to the marina,  however, the sky was beginning to take on a dodgy shade of grey.  Our last night with the Pasteiners at our usual restaurant - have had a brilliant week - they are excellent guests and we are still speaking. At least we are to them!

Early morning in Keci Buku

Friday 30

Heavy rain overnight and a grey day - Greta and Rob left us at 10.30 a.m. for their flight home and we set to tidying up but getting ready for our next adventure and a week on shore but first - drinks on board with all those boats still here: Breakaway, Seductress, Freya of Lerwick  - are they ever going to leave?

Another week

Saturday 17

Waited until after lunch for arrival of replacement dinghy only to find that it had an identical tear. Fortunately the young man who delivered it had suggested we check the replacement before he left - the only drawback was that he could only get one dinghy in his van and we still had to hold on to one. This involved wheeling it on a pilfered supermarket trolley backwards and forwards to the main gate.  For anyone who does not have a business on site or works on site, 20 euros has to be paid to get through the main gate. Third time lucky the new dinghy was finally delivered but too late to start getting it on to the boat's bathing platform underneath the passarelle.

Sunday 18

First trip this season to Marmaris fruit and vegetable market - this time we knew the way and didn't walk round in ever decreasing circles in blazing sunshine looking for it.  The produce displayed and sold is incredible and very cheap. 

Back to the boat exhausted by our efforts and then played around getting the dinghy on board - not quite sure how it will be as the new one has a fibre glass hull and therefore heavier and some adjustments to previous system needed.

Drinks on Breakway but dinner on board.

Monday 19

We are no longer referred to as Bruce and Fran but by the name of the boat.  So Breakway and Bula left on a two day road trip and Sandpiper actually set sail this morning.  Very quiet without them all but when we went for dinner in the restaurant, thinking we would be alone, we met Freya of Lerwick and Growl Tiger. 

Tuesday 20

Trip into Marmaris as going a little stir crazy at the marina.  We catch a bus (dolmus) from the marina gates which run every 20 minutes and take approximately 20 minutes into town at just less than £1 each, each way.  A little bit of shopping in chandlers, a visit to Niaile to arrange a new winter cover for the new roof, and fresh orange juice and lunch in town along the quayside.

Back to Marmaris in the evening with Growl Tiger and Seductress (aka Ducky??) to join in a happy hour at Netsel Marina in a restaurant called Pineapple.  The idea is to meet fellow cruisers and new friends but like most of these occasions we sat with the people we knew although it did make a nice change from the restaurant at our own marina.

Wednesday 21

The weather has really picked up and now approximately 30 degrees but with enough of a breeze to stop us boiling over and still quite cool in the evenings.  We have taken to walking around the pontoons to the furthest one away in an attempt to get some exercise. As the marina is vast this is a reasonable walk and we gawp at all the massive boats which are moored on the outside pontoons.

Thursday 22

Another trip to Maramaris market to stock up for the arrival of Greta and Rob on Friday. Thursday's market is even bigger than Sunday's and I get completely bamboozled by the variety and cant make up my mind which stall to shop at - the Captain gets a little impatient. By now Breakaway (I keep wanting to break into Beach Boys song) and Bula have returned and drinks this evening on Freya. Freya's Captain pours the strongest G&Ts ever and we all fell off the boat three hours after arriving and as they had supplied endless nibbles we rolled back to our berths skipping dinner.

Friday 23

Newly designed fittings for dinghy on to bathing platform have not been made and Captain now scratching his head and changing his design frantically before Greta & Rob's arrival later today - typical.  If it wasnt for the last minute...................... but otherwise inside of boat all ready and stocked up.  Still have to wash the boat as well but looking forward to leaving the marina with them tomorrow and actually going sailing. But guess what? Its going to be windy!

Getting on with jobs

Monday 12

Sun shining at last and time to start sorting things out.  The top part of the boat was polished by 6.30 p.m. and the new dinghy arrived during the course of the afternoon - so felt we had made a start.

Tuesday 13

Time to get the old cover off the variotop (a little like a softtop roof on a car) - and it took all day. It was by now, slightly alarmingly, torn all over. The lining had completely rotted and was like soot, which went everywhere. Fortunately we had had another cover over the roof all winter and although rain water had got inside the boat it caused little, if any, damage and my washing basket had been placed strategically under the worst part to catch the drips.

Ripped roof

Helping to undo all the screws around the edge

We had been watching the forecast and no rain until Thursday so not too concerned about rain overnight and only having the inside lining of the roof in place.

Yet another drinks party on Seductress  this time and dinner after, of course.

Wednesday 14

Optimistically thought we were going to get the new roof in place today but another day passed and not much I could do to help as all the holes on the leading edge of the new roof didn't quite match up with the existing holes and the Captain had to drill and tap another 38 all the way around.

Our first night in - I had to cook!

Thursday 15

Finally - but not until 4.30 ish - the new roof in place and out to Cruising Association dinner (41 members at dinner and others turned away as not enough room for more). By now very familiar with menu and going through the dishes we like for at least the second time.

Happily almost done

A few wrinkles to sort out and a change of colour for the Mediterranean

Friday 16

The new dinghy had been left languishing on the pontoon while the roof was sorted out so the Captain decided to get it on to the back of the boat only to find it had a tear (approx 50 ml long) in the side.  Managed to organise for chandler in town to collect and replace but not until tomorrow. In the meantime two more friends from the UK had returned to the marina and some confusion on which boat to have celebratory drinks.  We were due to host drinks on Saturday but decided to move it forward to tonight so slight panic to tidy everything up (tools everywhere, bimini and sides still to be put in place, booze to be purchased etc) but made it with time to spare for the Captain to have a little sleep - he was worn out from his roofing experience. If anyone ever needs help to replace a cover on a Linssen 500 Variotop they know who to contact.

Yacht Marina Marmaris

Sunday 11 May 2014

Wednesday 07 May

We arrived at the Marina late on Wednesday night after a mind numbing journey from home via Gatwick, and a delay of approximately an hour on the 'plane while airport staff removed the luggage of two passengers who had decided not to fly anyway, and possibly the most civilized, and hopefully the last, taxi ride from Dalaman Airport. 

As the 'yard' where Sequel has been all winter is flood lit like a massive football pitch we were able to see even at 11.30 p.m. that the work had been completed. 

Thursday 08

Up and about as things to do before a return to the water on Friday morning. The Captain disappeared to visit various people he had to see but within a very short space of time I received a message that he was having coffee on Bula (Geoff & Anne's boat) - great start to our plan to get things done - but I was down the ladder in no time at all to join the coffee party. We did set to in the afternoon, however, as we had to get the winter cover off and the anchor chain, all 100 metres of it and very heavy, back on board and in its locker.  I was also keen to mark the chain at intervals so that I have little more than a vague idea of how much I let out every time we drop it.  I have tried a sort of counting technique but actually I have absolutely no idea. So we laid it out and sprayed black paint at 10 metre intervals and then had a cup of tea. By this time there were some very threatening black clouds accumulating and we had to scurry to then get the chain aboard.  The distance from the ground to the front locker is about 3 metres, So the Captain stood on board with the anchor winch and I lifted up the chain as best as I could and it worked well until we got to the anchor itself which I could not begin to pick up.  A very nice chap who was working on his boat next to us came to our rescue and with one arm picked up the anchor - I felt quite inadequate but the job was done - and then the heavens opened and it rained for at least two hours with the usual display of lightning and thunder, the novelty of which wears off after a while. And the yard after the rain was a large grey muddy puddle - the dust being a little like concrete dust and the result a horrible mess.

After (see previous post for Before (Surrounded)

Friday 09

Back into the water quite early and what a relief after the concrete swamp. Forecast was for rain all day but we were lucky, and it didnt rain all day although no sign of the sun.  We have not experienced a May quite like this one in the Med or Turkey in the last four or so years. We were taken by the marineros to Juliet pontoon which was exactly where we wanted to go (and where there are at least two other boats we know) but into a very tight spot and for the first time out in over 7 months the Captain was a-maz-ing.  We had a moment or two of anxiety over another line getting caught in the starboard stabilizer but managed to avoid it and we were soon having coffee again on Bula. 

Saturday 10

Time for a quick trip into Marmaris to sort out our wi-fi and a trip to West Marine chandlers for some chairs for the deck.  We took home the covers of our directors' chairs when we popped over in April and they are sitting, beautifully clean, in a cupboard somewhere in Willowtree. My turn for a senior moment - my husband having had a bad one before we left home looking for a CD (with the engine manual on it) which he had packed carefully in an accompanying booklet and packed in his bag - we found it after we got here having turned his study upside down just before we left.

Sunday 11

After a beautiful, very promising, start to the day I am now writing this inside the boat as it tips down with rain again - the Captain is reading the paper asleep - very clever - upstairs by the helm position. It does look like the weather is improving over the next week and the boat is to have its top half cleaned and polished and a few other things sorted out before our first guests arrive on 23 May. We are looking forward to piping them aboard.

I am very pleased to report that we have a new liferaft in place already and a new dinghy arriving tomorrow - along with the deck chairs. Tonight is the beginning of summer (?!) party at the Marina  - we are already on notice to have the equivalent of a towel ready to bags our seats at a table for about 13 of us at 6.30 p.m. I am already a little worried if there is any blood left in my alcohol system.

Rain on its way again

Still raining........................